15 September 2009
We travel mostly by bus – great way to see the country. For the stretch from the coast back to Quito, we decide to take a flight. A 30min flight will save us 12 hours on the bus. Natasha books a cheap flight from Manta to Quito with national carrier ICARO. I'm a bit wary of flying with an airline named after a man that fell from the sky to his death, but Greek mythology should not get into the way of modern transport.
We take the 15.15 bus from Puerto Lopez to Manta. At first we're a bit nervous, as it leaves at 15.30h only, and its first stop is at the nearest gasoline station to refuel. But after a scenic ride along the coast we arrive with perfect timing for our 19.15h flight from Manta to Quito. Baggage checked, boarded, and take-off
About halfway into our flight the pilot informs: there is rain and fog in Quito and the airport is closed. He circles for a while, but finally decides to return to Manata. Instead of a 30 minutes flight to Quito, we end up on a 80 minutes flight from Manta to Manta. Information is promised, but we wait in vain. Finally, at 22.00h, three hours after our original departure time, the door to the gate opens - we board again. Quito here we come!
After 15 minutes of flying a dejá-vu: Rather unexpectedly the pilot announces that Quito is still closed and that, again, we're returning to Manta. 22.40h, we're landing in Manta for the second time this evening. ICARO takes care of hotel reservations (although we'll have to pay for it ourselves). Finally, at 24.00h, we check in the hotel.
So much for planing ahead, and saving time. Mañana es otro dia!
Whale watching
14 September 2009
From Puerto Lopez, we go on a small boat for whale watching. And what a show we get: first, a baby whale is launching out of the ocean, and flapping its fins. Soon after, his huge mom joins in. Later, we observe an even bigger bull jumping. It is hard to take pictures, as these animals are only out of the water for a second or two. Most of my photos show only huge splashes.
Our small boat is shaken quite a bit in the open sea. Some passengers get sea-sick and hang overboard. Natasha and I feel great – after a week on a shaky boat in the Galapagos, we are used to this. We only have problems on land, when we're on steady ground. That really makes us feel sick!
Our small boat is shaken quite a bit in the open sea. Some passengers get sea-sick and hang overboard. Natasha and I feel great – after a week on a shaky boat in the Galapagos, we are used to this. We only have problems on land, when we're on steady ground. That really makes us feel sick!
In the bin
On our Galapagos cruise, we didn't get much quality sleep because the boat was rocking very hard. Everything not tied down would fly around. One night, my toilet bag fell down from the sink right into the paper bin next to the toilet. You know, in Latin America, the used toilet paper is not thrown into the toilet, but into that very bin my bag fell into...
The last of its kind
07 September 2009
Imagine you're the last surviving of your kind on the planet. This is what happened to the giant tortoise lonesome George. He's the only surviving of his species. He lives in the Darwin research centre on Santa Cruz where efforts are being made to prevent this species from dying out. These include:
- Having 'Lonesome George' mate with females from a very closely related other species. The problem seems to be that George generally lacks sexual appetite and just doesn't know how to do it. However, his two girlfriends recently laid eggs – this is the result of a 'motivational therapy'.
- Finding another one of his species: Giant tortoises have been removed from Galapágos over the centuries. Due to their longevity , there might be other survivors on the planet. If you keep a giant turtle as a pet, please check: it might be of the same species as George.
- Cloning George.
Although none of the above efforts have so far been successful, the time factor lets us hope that a solution will be found: George is an estimated 110 years old, and as he can live over a 200 years, there are some 80 years left to safe his species from extinction.
Galápagos, a little piece of paradise on earth
5 to 12 September 2009
These islands are amazing. The animals have no fear. Birds, sea lions, iguanas, tortoises do not hide from other animals (or humans), but let them get as close as they want. This is great for animal watching and picture taking. The abundance of animals is unbelievable: there are birds all over: in the sky, nesting everywhere on the ground, iguanas between them, the beaches full of red crabs and sea lions. We take panga (Zodiac) rides and can't even follow all the action: turtles in the water, penguins on shore, pelicans diving down from above, sea-lions jumping in the air. Our guide Rafael was great, a fountain of knowledge, explaining many scientific facts to us in a lighthearted and humorous manner.
Some of our magical experiences:
- swimming with playful sea lions that come within inches of us
- swimming up to a rock full of penguins
- panga rides through the beautiful mangroves watching big turtles float around, and white tip
- sharks doze in the shallow water
- birds that in groups of up to six dive into the water at incredible speeds
- watching the baby sea lions and their mommies laze around on the beaches, not bothered at all by our presence
- snorkling with turtles, a sea horse and one (relaxed) white tip shark
- watching the adorable blue footed boobies parade around
The animals of Galápagos live in harmony in their own little paradise. This was not always true for humans that settled on the island: many early efforts to colonise the islands had a bloody ending.
Link: quasarexpeditions.com
Colombia: The only risk is wanting to stay...
30 August
...is the slogan of the Colombian tourist agency. This surely proved true for us but in a rather unexpected way:
We entered Colombia rather wary of the security situation, thinking we'd stay 2 to 3 weeks maximum. But it did not take long before we fell in love with the country, and before we knew it, we had spent 5 wonderful weeks in the country!
A bit sad to leave the country, we stand in line at the border to get our exit stamp from the Colombian immigration office. As usual in this very efficient and well organized country, the line moves along smoothly, and soon it is our turn. We hand over our passports, already thinking of Ecuador . . . unexpectedly, the officer asks us to come around to his office . . . what could this possibly be about?
Apparently, we completely failed to notice that upon arrival, the immigration officer in Cartagena, placed a stamp in our passports with an exit date on it: we had been given 30 days and not the maximum allowed 60 days! Oh no, by the 30th of August, we had been in the country illegally for 8 days. The fact that we could easily have stayed much longer if we only got the immigration stamp right doesn't matter – now it's too late. The immigration officer at the border refuses to let us exit, has us wait 30 minutes in his office while he processes a long queue of people, and then explains that we are liable to pay a hefty fine! According to the rule-book this has to be done at a bank – but they're all closed on a Sunday (as is the embassy which we try to call)! Looks like we have to turn around, spend another night in the hotel at the border, go to a bank in town the next morning to make the payment, and return to immigration again.... or . . . well let's just say a few minutes later we're on our way to Quito in Ecuador.
I'm not sure this was the scenario the tourist officials had in mind when creating their slogan, but wanting to stay became rather expensive for us in this so far safe country.
Gaudi's trip to the dentist
21 August 2009
Before taking off on our trip I had one of my fillings redone to avoid any dental problems while travelling. Ironically it was exactly that tooth that started hurting shorty after our departure. With the excellent reputation of Colombia's doctors, I thought this is my chance to have someone look at it.
Mr. Frei, the Swiss Honorary Consul and owner of our hotel, set up an appointment for me in no time. The next morning, señora Frei chauffeurs us to the dentist. The whole neighbourhood consists of clinics, dentists, and lots of cosmetic surgeons. The dentist is a very attractive and very young looking woman . . . 'is she really the dentist?' Natasha wonders. We spent almost two hours at her clinic, of which one hour is spent on getting an x-ray. At one point, the dentist herself walks with us through the neighbourhood to an x-ray clinic (as she doesn't have her own). The work on the tooth is carried out to my full satisfaction. The cost: 5 USD for the x-rays, and 10 USD for the dentist.
Before taking off on our trip I had one of my fillings redone to avoid any dental problems while travelling. Ironically it was exactly that tooth that started hurting shorty after our departure. With the excellent reputation of Colombia's doctors, I thought this is my chance to have someone look at it.
Mr. Frei, the Swiss Honorary Consul and owner of our hotel, set up an appointment for me in no time. The next morning, señora Frei chauffeurs us to the dentist. The whole neighbourhood consists of clinics, dentists, and lots of cosmetic surgeons. The dentist is a very attractive and very young looking woman . . . 'is she really the dentist?' Natasha wonders. We spent almost two hours at her clinic, of which one hour is spent on getting an x-ray. At one point, the dentist herself walks with us through the neighbourhood to an x-ray clinic (as she doesn't have her own). The work on the tooth is carried out to my full satisfaction. The cost: 5 USD for the x-rays, and 10 USD for the dentist.
The Swiss Connection
20 August 2009
Throughout Central America, we saw surprisingly many traces of Swiss immigrants. Starting with “la pequena Suiza” in Costa Rica, we spotted Swiss restaurants offering alpine food in Panama, Cartagena, and Bogotá. In Panama City the bernese bear is flying on top of a construction crane. We spot Toni yoghurt in the supermarkets, and Holcim factories in many towns. But it is in Calí, where we stay in a hotel that's not only run by a Swiss, but by the honorary consul himself. The Hotel, Pension Stein, is located in a gorgeous palazzo and the manager and Swiss consul, Mr. Frei, is very friendly and helpful. A great place to stay in Calí.No smoking in the toilets
The comfortable Colombian buses all have a toilet in the back – although it is very challenging using it with all the shaking of the vehicle. There is a significant risk of being launched out of the cabin into the alley of the bus with your pants down (but that's not what this story is about).
On our busride between Rio Claro and Bogotá, suddenly a strong smell emerged in the back of the bus; one passenger suggested that a young man was smoking weed in the toilet. The bus driver's assistant was alerted, and he violently opened the toilet door, but could not find any evidence. Five minutes later, the bus pulled over, and the Colombian highway police entered. The accused was taken outside and searched, with all passengers watching. The officers even smelled his fingers. But again, no proof of misbehaviour, and the youngster was allowed back on the bus. During the rest of the journey, the military entered the bus a few more times, and on each occasion this man got the “special treatment”. I guess it did not help that he decided to travel without shirt and in camouflage pants. We were deeply impressed by the swift response of the bus personnel and the security forces. Although more entertaining than the movie shown on the bus, we thought it best not to take any pictures of this incidence.
On our busride between Rio Claro and Bogotá, suddenly a strong smell emerged in the back of the bus; one passenger suggested that a young man was smoking weed in the toilet. The bus driver's assistant was alerted, and he violently opened the toilet door, but could not find any evidence. Five minutes later, the bus pulled over, and the Colombian highway police entered. The accused was taken outside and searched, with all passengers watching. The officers even smelled his fingers. But again, no proof of misbehaviour, and the youngster was allowed back on the bus. During the rest of the journey, the military entered the bus a few more times, and on each occasion this man got the “special treatment”. I guess it did not help that he decided to travel without shirt and in camouflage pants. We were deeply impressed by the swift response of the bus personnel and the security forces. Although more entertaining than the movie shown on the bus, we thought it best not to take any pictures of this incidence.
Juan Starbucks?
Since leaving Miami, we have not set foot into a Starbucks. Not because we refused, but because there haven't been any. Colombia has its own brand of Starbucks: Juan Valdez! This chain serves delicious Colombian Coffee. Its décor and self-service concept are very similar to the US original (only the parasols are red, not green). And as in Starbucks, the coffee here is ridiculously overpriced.P.S.: Juan Valdez is actually owned by the Colombian coffee producer's association. The body that buys all -Colombian beans and sells them abroad. A very important and powerful organisation. At some point, they even owned Avianca, one of the national airlines.
The tallest palm tree in the world
18 August 2009
During an excursion to Cocora Valley we admire Colombia's national tree: the Palma de Cera (Wax Palm). The climate here is temperate, needle trees and alpine landscape (we're at 1800 meters), too cold for coffee or banana trees, but just right for the palma de cera. This palm tree grows up to 75 meters high, towering above the forest canopy which reaches around 40 meters.
During an excursion to Cocora Valley we admire Colombia's national tree: the Palma de Cera (Wax Palm). The climate here is temperate, needle trees and alpine landscape (we're at 1800 meters), too cold for coffee or banana trees, but just right for the palma de cera. This palm tree grows up to 75 meters high, towering above the forest canopy which reaches around 40 meters.There are some very remote farms in the area, only reachable on horseback, or foot. As locals on horses cross our path in the forest, our guide asks them how long they have been riding: they answer eight hours. Once a week, they come down from their remote farm to sell some cheese and buy necessities. If you ever need a place to hide, we might have a suggestion...
On our walk through the valley, we come by the entrance of a farm for Torros – the ones that feature in the bullfight. These animals are extremely aggressive, and entering the farm would be very dangerous, especially as I'm wearing a red shirt today.
Instead we visit a farm for Trucha (trout), the speciality of the region. Of course we eat one for lunch. Here's the odd thing: the fish is not native to the region; small fish are imported from Canada and farmed here. Apparently, some of the Canadian trout escaped and lives happily in the nearby cold rivers, avoiding consumption.
On our walk through the valley, we come by the entrance of a farm for Torros – the ones that feature in the bullfight. These animals are extremely aggressive, and entering the farm would be very dangerous, especially as I'm wearing a red shirt today.
Instead we visit a farm for Trucha (trout), the speciality of the region. Of course we eat one for lunch. Here's the odd thing: the fish is not native to the region; small fish are imported from Canada and farmed here. Apparently, some of the Canadian trout escaped and lives happily in the nearby cold rivers, avoiding consumption.
From Bogotá to the coffee district
17 August 2009
The Columbian buses are great, except for the movies shown at high volume (I've seen the first half of “the bank job” three times). What a scenic trip from Bogota to Armenia, in the Coffee district! The highway leads us over a mountain of 3300 meters! The buses here manage an average speed of about 40 km/h. On the uphill roads, we're sometimes stuck behind trucks which do not go faster than 10 or 20 km/h – and there is no fast lane. The slow traffic has some advantages for the kids from the mountain villages. On their bicycles, they just hang on to a truck and let it pull them up the mountain.
We break up our trip in Calarcá, where we stay in the most relaxing hotel: Hacienda Combia. There's a great pool, and views over the countryside. The hotel has six resident parrots which make a real racket in the morning, whistling and laughing. The hotel is part of a 34 ha coffee plantation. We get a great tour of the grounds and see the production process. We learn that there are three general degrees of quality: first class beans, second class beans, and the residual material like peel and very small beans. To my disappointment, the very best quality is reserved for export and shipped to the US and Europe. We now know what the super cheap street coffee Gaudi insists on drinking every day is made of... |
| Hacienda Combia, Calarca |
Summer, Winter, Autumn, Spring....?
Colombia is an amazing country. It has coastline to the Caribbean and to the Pacific, three mountain ranges with some peaks above 5000meters, wide valleys with big rivers, and Amazon forest. In Cartagena, we had to hide in the hotel between 1pm and 5pm. It was simply too hot and humid to be outside. Medellin, at an altitude of 1400 meters surrounded by green mountains, is called the city of eternal spring: year round temperatures above 20 degrees – perfect! Bogota, at 2600m above sea level, is a few degrees colder – you need a jacket here. I suggest to call it the city of eternal autumn. Tunja is even higher (2800m) and cooler: we see people wearing gloves. In Popayan (1700m), we visit the Puracé national park at an altitude of 3350 meters in pouring rain and freezing cold. As we return back to the city, we enjoy warm sunshine. The only thing we have not experienced (yet) is winter.
On the road: A trip to the north
10 August 2009
By mistake, we buy a handbook for car travellers by in Colombia – we were told it was a book with the bus schedules. As we had the book already, we decided to rent a car and explore the north of Bogotá on our own. Driving in Colombia? - no problem. The roads are good, the drivers disciplined. We even understood most of the traffic signs. Once we picked up a local lady that was hitch hiking. She asked if we lived in the neighbouring town – Natasha's Spanish is that good!The National car rental agency in Bogotá was extremely professional and very helpful. When choosing our car, the agency not only had to provide a model in our chosen category, but also with a licence plate that would match our travel dates with the Pica y Placa system: To reduce traffic, any car can only drive the big cities on two out of the five working days, depending on the last number of its license plate. In our case, only a plate ending in a zero allowed us to depart on Tuesday and return on Friday.
We visited Tunja, a pleasant, partly colonial city. Here the tourist police officers not only protect us but also provide us with free guided tours of the city's architectural treasures; they are very courteous and friendly. We headed on to Villa de Leyva, a most beautiful colonial town. All houses are white, which makes for a strong contrast with the surrounding green mountains. We hiked up to the Laguna de Iguaque on 3600 meters. What a view we had on the country from up there! Easy to believe that this laguna was linked to legends of the gods in the beliefs of the regional indigenous people. Our last stop was the Laguna de Guatavita. This crater lake combines natural beauty with an example of the lengths the colonialists went to, to rob the “New World” and its Inca inhabitants of its gold. The lake is linked to the legend of “El Dorado”: a lake filled with gold from centuries of Inca rituals. This legend lead the greedy colonialists to draw up plans to drain the lake in order to collect all the gold suspected to be at the bottom. Today, a 70 meter deep incision into the crater is testimony to this effort which ultimately failed. No gold has ever been found, but today the lake is 70 meters less deep.
Micro-entrepreneurs
The Colombians have a reputation of being business minded and entrepreneurial. Here are some examples of micro-services that are provided in the street:In Cartagena, men walk around with boiling hot coffee in thermos bottles. For 0,30 USD, you can get a plastic cup with delicious coffee in the street. A small espresso size cup costs half – who needs Starbucks with guys like these?
Women sell candy and chewing gum by the piece from little stalls in the street. I bought two candies for 0,025 USD each.
In all of Colombia, people sell mobile phone minutes. These sellers wear coloured vests with a big poster advertising the price for renting a mobile phone for one minute - prices vary by location. In the busier streets, they tie the phones with long cords to their body, to prevent anyone from running off with one of the phones.
I encounter the most creative micro-service in Medellin. A man with a scale is in the middle of popular Plaza Botero. For 0,60 USD I step on the scale and check my weight for the first time in two months. The man reads the weight for me and happily announces it not only to me, but to everyone else in earshot. Luckily, I'm just within my target weight and embarrassment is avoided.
Bogotá
7 August 2009
Bogotá: a metropolitan 21th century city with lots to offer, from its charming colonial historic neighbourhood to its fancy modern districts and some amazing views.
As in any huge city, there is lots of traffic. But congestion has been reduced significantly with an impressive public transport system: the Transmilenio. The red buses run on dedicated bus lanes (really exclusive, not like the bus lanes in London aka parking spaces) and provide fast transport through the city. The system is highly complex and must have been thought out by some really smart people!
Bogota offers a wide variety of cuisines: we go for Chinese and Thai (twice!). We enjoy the historic neighbourhood La Candelaria, spend almost a whole day in the impressive Museo d'Oro, and admire the views from the 50th floor of the Torre Colpatria (a skyscraper with viewing platform). But we get even better views from the nearby mountain Montserrate. How to get there? Of course with a cable-car (teleferico) built by Swiss engineers VonRoll in the 1950's.
We also spend a few days in the residential neighbourhood of Suba, where Senora Carmen Sanchez has us stay with her. This way, we experience Bogotá life as the locals do. At a nearby shopping mall, I get a haircut (4 USD). Cows graze in between new housing developments. If the modern shopping mall is not for you, there are tons of mini shops in between all the residences selling from bread to mobile phones. On Sunday, all the families of the neighbourhood gather on the field near the mall and let their colourful kites fly. There are easily 200 kites up in the air. What a sight!
Bogotá: a metropolitan 21th century city with lots to offer, from its charming colonial historic neighbourhood to its fancy modern districts and some amazing views.As in any huge city, there is lots of traffic. But congestion has been reduced significantly with an impressive public transport system: the Transmilenio. The red buses run on dedicated bus lanes (really exclusive, not like the bus lanes in London aka parking spaces) and provide fast transport through the city. The system is highly complex and must have been thought out by some really smart people!
Bogota offers a wide variety of cuisines: we go for Chinese and Thai (twice!). We enjoy the historic neighbourhood La Candelaria, spend almost a whole day in the impressive Museo d'Oro, and admire the views from the 50th floor of the Torre Colpatria (a skyscraper with viewing platform). But we get even better views from the nearby mountain Montserrate. How to get there? Of course with a cable-car (teleferico) built by Swiss engineers VonRoll in the 1950's.
We also spend a few days in the residential neighbourhood of Suba, where Senora Carmen Sanchez has us stay with her. This way, we experience Bogotá life as the locals do. At a nearby shopping mall, I get a haircut (4 USD). Cows graze in between new housing developments. If the modern shopping mall is not for you, there are tons of mini shops in between all the residences selling from bread to mobile phones. On Sunday, all the families of the neighbourhood gather on the field near the mall and let their colourful kites fly. There are easily 200 kites up in the air. What a sight!
Rio Claro: a piece of paradise
03 August 2009
Rio Claro stands up to its name: it is crystal clear, we can even drink the water. The location: Off the highway linking Medellin to Bogotá (5 hrs to each city), a lonely entrance announces the private refugio. To get to the reception, one has to walk down another 2km on a gravel road
Our “room”: is more like a balcony: two walls are completely missing. We live in the tree-tops.
Being in such a beautiful, untouched and remote place has its cost: One day, we have the crazy idea of making a phone call to reserve a hotel ahead. The refuge does not have a landline, and the staff cannot provide a mobile phone: like most people, they don't have any credit on their SIM card to make calls. We are told that there is a person in a hut on the highway that has a functioning mobile phone. We walk the two kilometres to the highway, only to discover that the person seems to have disappeared. An hour later, we're back in the jungle – accepting that a phone-call is a luxury that will only be available to us once we move on.
Another day, the power is out all day, which doesn't bother us, as we're happy swimming in the river. However, as the power doesn't come on in the evening, it gets pitch-dark. Our headlamps once again prove to be invaluable. Luckily, the kitchen cooks on gas, such that we can enjoy a nice diner in the light of a candle.
Rio Claro stands up to its name: it is crystal clear, we can even drink the water. The location: Off the highway linking Medellin to Bogotá (5 hrs to each city), a lonely entrance announces the private refugio. To get to the reception, one has to walk down another 2km on a gravel road
The Refuge is set along this beautiful river complete with wild sculpted rocks, huge cliffs of karst mountain, and little beaches to swim.
Our “room”: is more like a balcony: two walls are completely missing. We live in the tree-tops.
Being in such a beautiful, untouched and remote place has its cost: One day, we have the crazy idea of making a phone call to reserve a hotel ahead. The refuge does not have a landline, and the staff cannot provide a mobile phone: like most people, they don't have any credit on their SIM card to make calls. We are told that there is a person in a hut on the highway that has a functioning mobile phone. We walk the two kilometres to the highway, only to discover that the person seems to have disappeared. An hour later, we're back in the jungle – accepting that a phone-call is a luxury that will only be available to us once we move on.Another day, the power is out all day, which doesn't bother us, as we're happy swimming in the river. However, as the power doesn't come on in the evening, it gets pitch-dark. Our headlamps once again prove to be invaluable. Luckily, the kitchen cooks on gas, such that we can enjoy a nice diner in the light of a candle.
Kayaking on the river: we only capsize once!
El Peñol
2 August 2009
El Peñol is an odd thing. This huge rock stands alone in the middle of a green hilly landscape. We ascend the 640 steps to its top. We are rewarded with magnificient views over the region. Part of the land below us has been submerged by an artificial lake, which creates the most wonderful lagoons. More pictures here.
El Peñol is an odd thing. This huge rock stands alone in the middle of a green hilly landscape. We ascend the 640 steps to its top. We are rewarded with magnificient views over the region. Part of the land below us has been submerged by an artificial lake, which creates the most wonderful lagoons. More pictures here.
Santa Fé de Antioquia
31 July 2009
A daytrip to the colonial gem of Santa Fé. To get there we drive through the longest tunnel in Latin America (4,6 km). Santa Fé is quite a bit lower than Medellin, and because of that also much hotter.
A daytrip to the colonial gem of Santa Fé. To get there we drive through the longest tunnel in Latin America (4,6 km). Santa Fé is quite a bit lower than Medellin, and because of that also much hotter.We also take a short ride in a Moto-taxi to a historic and picturesque suspension bridge. Puente de Occidente.
Going to and from the mountain road to Santa Fé confirms an observation I have made many times: people in the mountains all over the world share one trait - they drive like criminals on the run.
Medellin: what a great city
27 July 2009
After a rather painful 14 hour bus ride from Cartagena, we arrive in Medellin. To most the city is known for its infamous “narcos”, namely Pablo Escobar. How things have changed! This city certainly shattered our one-sided image of Colombia - drugs and guerillas. In Medellin, we found a modern, affluent, well functioning, clean and safe city. It is beautifully located within green mountains and is known as the city of eternal spring, in other words the weather is almost always perfect.
Public transport is fast and clean with an excellent metro, the only one in Colombia as the locals like to boast. The city also has very imaginative and inviting public spaces, a prime example being the Parque de los Pieds Descalzos where people take off there shoes and socks to walk around in the sand and put their feet in water fountains. All these public spaces come complete with official park wardens, who are there in case you have any questions and to make sure that the space is not misused.
The city has also introduced a very interesting concept to improve poor neighbourhoods: building very impressive public squares with extensive libraries in the middle of some of the poorest neighbourhoods. These serve as islands of knowledge and a community centre, and are actively used by the population. The impressive modern architecture of the libraries sends a signal: the improvement of the neighbourhood is meant seriously, and knowledge is important.
While in Zurich the most exclusive areas are up on the hills, in Medellin these tend to be the poorest neighbourhoods. To help improve these neighbourhoods they have been connected to the public transport system through modern cablecars. In addition to providing transport, the cablecar offers great views over the city!
Another highlight of Medellin is Botero, an internationally renowned Colombian painter and sculptor. We love the Botero plaza filled with his giant sculpture as well as the excellent Botero museum.
We are lucky in that Natasha's friend Juan Fernando invites us to stay with him and his sister (and their turtle) in the charming neighbourhood of Envigado. We have a wonderful time with Juan and learn a lot from him about the city and the country.
Medellin Fotos - click here.
After a rather painful 14 hour bus ride from Cartagena, we arrive in Medellin. To most the city is known for its infamous “narcos”, namely Pablo Escobar. How things have changed! This city certainly shattered our one-sided image of Colombia - drugs and guerillas. In Medellin, we found a modern, affluent, well functioning, clean and safe city. It is beautifully located within green mountains and is known as the city of eternal spring, in other words the weather is almost always perfect. 
Public transport is fast and clean with an excellent metro, the only one in Colombia as the locals like to boast. The city also has very imaginative and inviting public spaces, a prime example being the Parque de los Pieds Descalzos where people take off there shoes and socks to walk around in the sand and put their feet in water fountains. All these public spaces come complete with official park wardens, who are there in case you have any questions and to make sure that the space is not misused.
The city has also introduced a very interesting concept to improve poor neighbourhoods: building very impressive public squares with extensive libraries in the middle of some of the poorest neighbourhoods. These serve as islands of knowledge and a community centre, and are actively used by the population. The impressive modern architecture of the libraries sends a signal: the improvement of the neighbourhood is meant seriously, and knowledge is important.While in Zurich the most exclusive areas are up on the hills, in Medellin these tend to be the poorest neighbourhoods. To help improve these neighbourhoods they have been connected to the public transport system through modern cablecars. In addition to providing transport, the cablecar offers great views over the city!
Another highlight of Medellin is Botero, an internationally renowned Colombian painter and sculptor. We love the Botero plaza filled with his giant sculpture as well as the excellent Botero museum.We are lucky in that Natasha's friend Juan Fernando invites us to stay with him and his sister (and their turtle) in the charming neighbourhood of Envigado. We have a wonderful time with Juan and learn a lot from him about the city and the country.
Medellin Fotos - click here.
Cartagena: straight from a fairytale
22 July 2009
First impression: as the airplane descends, we get a spectacular view of Cartagena, it looks beautiful from the air . . . as we drive into the historic center, we soon discover that it is truly beautiful. Walking around in the historic center of Cartagena is a bit surreal, almost like being in a fairytale.
Our hotel is just outside the walls surrounding the historic heart of the city, in a neighbourhood that feels more real (many street sellers, a busy market nearby, and a prostitute or two at night). Close to our hotel we discover the most charming square where the locals gather in the evening to sit and talk, while the kids play in front of the church. On a Sunday morning we walk by this church and hear what sounds like a party so we enter the church. Wow, mass here is something else: a live band, tons of singing, everyone clapping and swaying, the church is packed with both young and old. What a difference from Sunday mass in Zurich.
One day we join the Colombian tourists (from Bogota, Medellin etc) on a “Chiva” tour going around the different sites and forts around the city . . . there is a vibrant local tourism, the first sign that Colombia is a relatively affluent country.
We fall in love with Colombia. What a great country!!!
Cartagena Pictures - click here.
First impression: as the airplane descends, we get a spectacular view of Cartagena, it looks beautiful from the air . . . as we drive into the historic center, we soon discover that it is truly beautiful. Walking around in the historic center of Cartagena is a bit surreal, almost like being in a fairytale.
Our hotel is just outside the walls surrounding the historic heart of the city, in a neighbourhood that feels more real (many street sellers, a busy market nearby, and a prostitute or two at night). Close to our hotel we discover the most charming square where the locals gather in the evening to sit and talk, while the kids play in front of the church. On a Sunday morning we walk by this church and hear what sounds like a party so we enter the church. Wow, mass here is something else: a live band, tons of singing, everyone clapping and swaying, the church is packed with both young and old. What a difference from Sunday mass in Zurich. One day we join the Colombian tourists (from Bogota, Medellin etc) on a “Chiva” tour going around the different sites and forts around the city . . . there is a vibrant local tourism, the first sign that Colombia is a relatively affluent country.
We fall in love with Colombia. What a great country!!!
Cartagena Pictures - click here.
Panama City
16 July 2009
Ah, after weeks of nature, we are actually looking forward to some time in a city! We enter Panama city with rather high expectations . . . most of which were not met.
Ah, after weeks of nature, we are actually looking forward to some time in a city! We enter Panama city with rather high expectations . . . most of which were not met.
The highlights were:
- A free two hour walking tour of the historic neighbourhood (Casco Viejo) by a very friendly guide. This is part of an initiative to revive this part of the city which used to be run down, but is now being restored.
- A walk along the Calzada, the causeway that leads to the islands off the coast, offering great views of the skyline of the modern business district, and the Casco Viejo.
Eating something other than beans and rice; twice we go for sushi, good tepanyaki and tasty Lebanese. - A train ride with the Panama Rail from the Pacific to the Caribbean along the Panama Canal and through the rainforest.
- An excursion to the town of Portobello with a most friendly driver.
- Laundry of our full laundry bag for only USD 2.
Lowlights:
- Taxis who constantly try to overcharge.
- Credit card fraud (yes no idea how it happened but all kinds of fraudulent transactions appeared on our credit card statement).
- Buying a new pair of USD 100 waterproof sandals that fall apart after first exposure to water.
- Risking your life every time you try to cross a street.
Panama City 
Portobello
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