Ruta 40

20 - 24 November 2009, Argentina

After a few days getting used to the hot and humid climate in Salta (Argentina), we embark on our next adventure: driving part of Argentina's famous Ruta 40 which stretches 5000km from the north all the way to the south. We rent a VW Gol (not a Golf, a Gol!). The people of the rental agency (Anta) were extremely friendly and helpful (like most people we've met in Argentina so far): they worked out a great itinerary for our four day car trip.

After visiting an idyllic (manmade) lake, embalse Cabra Corral, we follow a river through a lush, green valley. On our way, we often pass gauchos riding on horses. What a change: all this green vegetation after our time in the desert! Soon the scenery changes into more arid landscape: red mountains dotted with green cacti. We cross a mountain pass (Piedra de Molino, 3347m) and enter the Parque Nacional Los Cardones: A dry plateau with lots of tall candelabra cacti. Soon, we descend into a green valley and enter Cachi (2280m): a most beautiful little town with a charming town-square, the tall mountains of the Andes in the background. We find a cute hostal (Hostal Tampu) with a nice garden. It feels like being a guest in someone's old mansion.

We do a little evening walk to one of the viewpoints. One of the village dogs spontaneously decides to accompany us on our walk. He walks with us (sometimes he leads our way) for over half an hour on our walk outside town. Incidentally, our viewpoint is also the cemetery, and that's where the dog turns very aggressive and starts barking at us violently. Natasha already fears it is going to turn into a monster (all those horror movies shown on the bus left their impression)... Maybe the dog wants to eat us for dinner, or maybe he only wants us to throw a stick for him. Thankfully, the dog finds a plastic bottle to drill his teeth into. We walk back into town with him, and wonder if he'll follow us to our hotel. But once we're back in town, he goes his own way.

On our second day, our path leads us along the green, fertile valley. This road is not paved, and very rough: This makes for intense driving: maximum 40 km/h, constantly looking out for potholes and loose rocks. Whenever there is an oncoming car, we enter a cloud of dust. The scenery is again spectacular: The lush green valley is contained by mountains on either side. We pass bizarre rock formations. The green cacti are a great contrast against the red mountains. Some of the cacti are blooming with white flowers. After an exhausting drive, we arrive in Cafayate, a wine growing village at 1660m. We drive by many, many vineyards, set in the plains of the valley. The vines grow side by side with tall cacti - an unusual sight.
Have we mentioned that it is HOT in this region: we made our A/C in the car work overtime, and still couldn't get it cool. Luckily, we find a nice hotel with a small pool in the garden to cool off!

Thankfully, the ruta 40 becomes paved after Cafayate: driving in a gear other than the first or second gear is a welcome new feeling. South of Cafayate, we visit the archeological site of Quilmes: a fortification of the Diaguita people that withstood the attacks of the Incas, and later of the Spanish. The ruins of this settlement are perched on a steep cliff, with fantastic views over the valley.

Our last stop is Tafí del Valle. We get there by crossing over the mountains again - the Infiernillo pass is at 3040m altitude. If it wasn't for the clouds and the fog on that height, we would have had a spectacular view, but at least we could cool off. At the peak, we saw sheep, llamas, a bit further down cows and horses grazing.
Tafí del Valle (2000m) is set in a wide valley of green mountains. It is known as a cheese producing town. We stay in an old estancia with lots of character, and relax with a cheese platter and a glass of regional wine on the front porch, watching the llamas graze. The dog of the estancia keeps a watchful eye on them.
On our last day, we do an extensive walk to the lake near Tafí del Valle, leading us over huge fields with hundreds of cows and horses grazing: what a sight. The weather is hot, and there are some blooming cacti. Hard to believe that this place is snow-covered in winter.

After descending 1500 meters in height through a curvy but spectacular green gorge, we arrive in Tucuman. Set on the wide plains, Tucuman is a pleasant, busy city: very hot, and very humid. After driving 659 kms we return our car. For the next few hundred kms, we'll take the bus again.

Pictures here...