Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire) was so named by the first European explorers because the aboriginal inhabitants (the Yamanas) used to keep fires burning all day to keep warm. Tierra del Fuego is actually a large island (and some smaller islands) and the most southern region of South America, divided between Chile and Argentina. This isolated and remote region is very difficult to explore with few roads and even less towns. So we book a cruise that will take us right along and through the islands of Tierra del Fuego. We embark in Puerto Natales (Chile) and disembark 4 days later in Ushuaia (Argentina).
In contrast to our last relatively basic cruise on the cargo passenger Navimag ferry, this one is passengers only and rather luxurious. Cabins are spacious, four course meals are served in a grand restaurant, drinks in the bar and lounge on board are included. But the true highlights of the cruise are the amazing places we cruise by and visit:
Ainsworth Bay, A gorgeous beach which can only be reached by boat - a colony of sea elephants (these huge animals can weigh up to 5 tonnes, best to keep a safety distance) are lazing around on the beach. We take a short walk along the beach and the forest behind it.
The Glaciar Pia, a marine glacier growing into the ocean. We approach the glacier by Zodiac crossing over many pieces of floating ice - quite a bumpy ride, we then walk along the rocks and hill right next to the glacier. The glacier itself is phenomenal and huge. We hear the ice crack inside the glacier, and sometimes small pieces break off its front wall. This huge mass of ice is moving constantly. As we leave the site, the crew takes along two huge blocks of ice from the water...a request from the barman. Our drinks will be cooled with glacier ice. 
Setting foot on Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn). We have been warned that this would be the toughest part of the cruise and that it may not be possible to go on land, the area being notorious for very rough seas. However, no one was expecting the conditions that meet us this morning: blue sky, not the slightest wind, hardly any waves. The crew can't believe their eyes. The captain confesses:"This isn't Cabo de Hornos. It's a Caribbean island!". It is a special feeling to visit the most southern point on this continent. Looking north, we see islands, even snowy mountains, looking south, there is nothing but the open sea.
Cabo de Hornos is an uninhabited island, except for one member of the Chilean Navy and his family. They live on the island (in the one house on a hill, which is actually also the lighthouse) for one year, until the next family arrives. What an experience alone for a year on this island but nowadays they have satelite tv and internet, and of course the cruise ship passengers.
A walk on Bahia de Wulaia, another pristine spot only accessible by boat. We have two options - an easy walk along the beach or a more strenuous walk up to a view point. We go for the latter. Surprisingly enough so do the majority of the other passengers, many of whom do not look very fit nor have proper hiking shoes. The way up is rainy and the steep path is very muddy and slippery, we stop at a beaver dam and spot two of them at work. Everyone seems to be in a great hurry to get to the viewpoint and pushes up, it is a bit of a human traffic jam. To our great luck the weather starts clearing up and we are rewarded with magical views when we reach the view point (which ends up being a relatively short walk). The guides request a minute of silence and to our amazement the so far rather rowdy crowd obliges and wow we have a couple of minutes of silence to really enjoy our surroundings.
The cruise ship has put together a packed program: lots of eating (both breakfast and lunch are extravagant buffets and dinner a 4 course affair); every day we have a land excursion sometimes two, talks and presentations on flora, fauna and history of the region, documentary movies, and evening entertainment. Well we take it pretty easy and skip many of the activities except for the excursions, well and the food of course.The meals are interesting. On the first evening we register for dinner, everyone is assigned to a table of 8, divided based on language. We decide it is best to practice our Spanish so request to be seated on a Spanish speaking table. Once assigned to a table, you have each of your meals (11 in total) at the same table with the same people. We are seated with one older Spanish couple (the husband originally from Chile) and a Spanish family with two kids (now living in Santiago de Chile). Every day each table has to compete a quiz. We have to fill in questionnaires and hand them in every evening. On the last evening, the winner is announced. One of the boys at our table,13 year old Pablo, is the intellectual type and very much into the quiz. He interrogates every crew member and scans the library until he gets every answer 100% right. The questions aren't that simple: What was the name of the watercolour painter on the HMS Beagle (Darwin's Ship)? What is Phrenology? How many species of Penguins are there? - Now try answering these on a ship without internet access.
On the last evening, our table is very anxious to hear the announcement of the winner - surely Pablo's enthusiasm must have earned him the trophy. But...oh disaster....the table next to us is announced to be the winner. Pablo is traumatised. His parents are quick to explain that this is all part of a bigger conspiracy against the Spanish in Chile. The English and Germans would always get better treatment, the Spanish would always come last. No way the Spanish speaking table could win the quiz - the game was rigged from the beginning - like always. Hmm, we are not so sure about this theory. But then again, didn't we notice before that every single night, our table was by far the last to get the main course of dinner served? Yes, these people are right. It is a conspiracy. Next time, we'll sit with the English speakers again.
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