Hiking in the Chapada Diamantina

10 May 2010, Chapada Diamantina (Bahia, Brasil)


Chapada Diamantina: Chapada means plateau, describing the many large hills. Diamantina refers to the fact that the area used to be an active diamond mining area until its abolishment in the 1990's for environmental reasons. Shutting down the mining industry led to an initial decline in colonial Lencois, but soon the town re-invented itself as a hikers' paradise. Today it is the entry gate into the beautiful Chapada Diamantina National Park, covering an area bigger than the Netherlands. There are lots of rivers, both with crystal clear water as well as black water (due to the foliage), waterfalls, caves and rock formations.

The trails in the area are not signed, so we need to hire a guide (it seems that for most tourist activities in Brazil one has to either contract a tourist agency, or a guide). We meet Marcelo, one of the few independent guides in the town - he's been hiking in the mountains for fifteen years and knows every trail in the park. Although he is considered one of the best guides in the area, he mentions that the people who know the region best are the old miners (the garimperos) that spent their whole life going to the most remote places looking for diamonds.

Marcelo convinces us to go for a three day hike, including two days of camping in the wild. Anything less would not get us far away from civilisation to enjoy the natural beauty of this place. So we set out, walking about 15km a day, not too difficult except for a few short steep stretches over rocks. The landscape is beautiful and varied. On our first day we cross a mountain range into a plane and get great views of the magnificent Morrao (large hill with plateau on top). We camp at a gorgeous spot known as Aguas Claras, a reference to the crystal clear waters in the river. There is no one else around. Only a few horses we crossed a few hours ago. Marcelo and Gaudi set up the tents and keep the fire going. We're lucky: Marcelo is not only an excellent guide, but also a good cook: after a day of hiking we get a delicious dinner for us containing a huge variety of vegetables. Natasha thinks not too bad so far but the sleeping part is not too comfy.

Waking up the next morning, the first thing Gaudi spots is a dark shadow sitting on the tent. It is black, about the size of a golf ball, and has eight long legs. Gaudi doesn't tell Natasha, so she can wake up peacefully. Only later, as we dismount the tent Marcelo identifies the hairy spider as a Tarantula (a small one, he says). He adds that it is not so dangerous, only small children and older people could die from its poisonous bite - but normally it would only lead to fever. It's another beautiful day and we continue our adventurous walk.

Setting up and breaking up camp is quite a process (part of the problem being that we don't have much of a clue). The other thing we have to get used to is carrying a load: Natasha has about 5/6 kg in her backpack, Gaudi about 8/9 kg and poor Marcelo carries all else must be at least 20kg!

The second day all was going too smoothly, Gaudi decided to introduce some drama: we were descending a very steep path down to a waterfall and suddenly right before reaching the river, Gaudi slides down the last few slippery rocks. Natasha gets such a shock she yells out and starts crying. But luckily Gaudi catches himself and is unharmed. Again Marcelo finds us a great camping spot by a nice river; we sleep a bit better but still Natasha is looking forward to the comfy bed and nice shower back in the pousada :-). However, nothing beats waking up in the pure nature, and taking a morning swim in the idyllic river, while the coffee brews over the fire.

The third day of hiking again is full of surprises, today we see a massive cave (entrance 50m high); we start out on top of the cave and hike down to its mouth, then along a beautiful river back to Lencois.