The Jesuit missions: harmonious fusion of cultures?

28 February 2010



Most accounts of the "culture clash" of the European Colonialists and the South American indigenous population follow a similar pattern: some encounters were friendly, most were violent. The indigenous people were enslaved, killed, or driven off their lands; their religious beliefs and traditions forcibly replaced by Catholicism, their artwork melted down for its gold content. Where the direct actions of the colonialists did not lead to their demise, imported illnesses did.





The Jesuit Missions are testimony to an alternative: a fusion of cultures instead of confrontation. The indigenous Guaranis lived together with Jesuit priests in the missions - in a strictly organised society, based on division of labour in agriculture and workshops. But the Guaranis were artistic people, too: The huge churches were richly ornamented in 'Guarani Baroque' and music played an important role in the missions.
But not everyone admired the Jesuit's success. Slavehunters regularly attacked the missions and intrigues were brought against the Jesuits. Before long, the Jesuits were expelled from South America by the Spanish and Portuguese kings.






A shocking experience

We adhere to certain standards when choosing a hotel: private bathroom with hot water - especially as Gaudi likes to take long and hot showers. Sometimes, the hot water is provided through an electrical shower: a special showerhead heats the water as it flows through. The construction is powered through a few wires. Sometimes, we have to chose between a hot shower in a dark bathroom or a lukewarm shower with light, as the energy for the bathroom light takes away from the heating. Electricity and water = bad combination. Indeed, in one hotel, Gaudi feels the tickling of the electrical current through a low-hanging showerhead. From now on, electrical showers are on the black-list when choosing a hotel. And if there is no other choice, Gaudi gladly takes an ice-cold shower.



Crossing the Rio del Plata

19 February 2010, Colonia de Sacramento (Uruguay)

Colonia de Sacramento is a picturesque colonial town of Portuguese heritage. A great place to spend a few days enjoying the cobblestoned streets, and the beautiful surroundings. It is situated on the huge Rio de la Plata, across from Buenos Aires (which can just be seen on the horizon on a clear day).

As we move on, we decide to take the night ferry across the river to Buenos Aires. As we are leaving the hotel in the evening, we glimpse at the TV running behind the reception desk: the evening news show pictures of a city with flooded streets, people walking up to their hip in water. The caption reads: "Live from Buenos Aires" - great, that's where we are heading to.
But a quick call to our booked hotel in B.A. confirms: that part of town is not under water, we don't need a raft to get to our hotel; a taxi will do.

Su nombre?


Making hotel reservations or buying bus tickets, we need to provide our names. "Gaudi" proves very difficult: it has to be spelled, and even then most people get at least three out of five letters wrong. "Schneider" is longer, but surprisingly few people have difficulties getting the spelling right. The reason might be in a comment that a Chilean makes:" Schneider - like the beer!". Indeed, some latin american countries know a beer of that name. From now on, Gaudi registers under "Schneider, como la cerveca".


Natasha has less problems, most people get her name instantly right. A new version of spelling is offered in Argentina though. The Argentinian pronounce the ll and y as "sh". The lady at the reception asks Natasha, how she spells her name: "Natalla", or "Nataya" - both pronounced Natasha in Argentina.

Keeping taxi drivers honest


How do you make sure you are not cheated by your cabdriver?

Well, in Panama City, you can only hope not to be cheated by too much. In some other places, cabs operate a taximeter - but then how can you make sure they take the direct route? "Traffic is crazy today, I will take a different road to avoid getting stuck in a jam" is an explanation that sounds familiar. Often there is no taximeter; agreeing the price beforehand is difficult - by asking how much the ride costs we show that we actually have no idea of the correct price.

The strategy we adopt is the following: we get in the cab, announce our destination, and at the end of the trip just hand the driver the amount we think is correct (having asked beforehand at a hotel or tourist information what that should be). In Cuenca, we take a cab from the bus terminal to our hotel - according to the hotel, this costs 2.50 USD. As we get out and unload our suitcases, Gaudi hands the driver his money. This exact moment, the driver says "1.50, por favor", but instantly realises that we overpaid and adds "Oh, muchas gracias, señor!", thanking for a generous 65% tip and almost hugging Gaudi.


A little bit of Suiza in Uruguay

19 February 2010, Nueva Helvecia (Uruguay)

Gaudi seems to miss Switzerland, so we visit Nueva Helvecia, also known as Colonia Suiza. The town was founded on 25 April 1862, when a group of Swiss immigrants arrived. On the main square we see the monument of the founders (two men pulling a plough) and a typical Swiss flower clock. One street is named Guillermo Tell, after the legendary Swiss national hero. The descendants of Swiss immigrants have the coat of arms of their former cantons displayed on their houses. Many inhabitants still speak German. We tried to listen, but did not hear anyone speak Schwitzerdütsch. We visit the local church, and pay a visit to the cemetery: lots of Swiss names here - even a "Schneider". Today, the town is known for its dairy products - it produces about half the cheese made in Uruguay. As we leave, only one question remains: who is "Frau Vogel"?


Visiting Nico in Montevideo

11 February 2010

During our South American journey, we planned to visit our friend Nico who lives in Montevideo, Uruguay. We announced our intention to visit soon after we started our trip (June 2009). But our timing is quite unpredictable, and after a few months, Nico was already wondering if we were still heading his way at all. But we finally make it to Montevideo in February 2010 - two weeks before Nico and his family are moving to Asuncion, Paraguay.


It's great to see Nico again, and meet his lovely family: his wife Erika and daughter Valentina. Montevideo has a picturesque centre and an impressive 20km long constanera: definitely a city with a high quality of life. Nico and Erika introduce us to the culinary attractions of Montevideo and take us on a daytrip to Punta del Este - one of South Americas most famous beach resorts. Montevideo prides itself on having the world's longest Carnival celebrations. We spend one night watching part of the show in an open-air theatre.

Montevideo Pictures here

Intrigues at the Casa Rosada

9 February 2010

La Casa Rosada - an apt name for the presidential palace: a huge pink building in the centre of Buenos Aires. Over the past weeks, we have been following an unusual drama on the evening news: the power struggle between the Argentinian presidenta and the chairman of the Argentinian cental bank - resulting in the chairman losing his job, and the presidenta gaining access to cental bank reserves. Finally, we see where all the action is happening! (This is not quit the end of the story, the drama continues at time of publication).

After weeks in the Patagonian wilderness, we enjoy the atmosphere of a big city. We walk down the busy shopping streets, enjoy the delicious offering of American restaurant chains, get haircuts and manicures, visit art museums, and have dinner in pleasant squares where couples dance the Tango.

Cama Suite

8 February 2010

We've been travelling on all sorts of buses. Many smelly ones, some leaning to one side, some with misbehaving passengers, some hot and without A/C, some stuck in the mud. For our trip from Viedma to Buenos Aires, 10 hours through the Pampas, the night bus is our only choice - so we go with the cama (bed) suite: first class in bus travel. We get seats that are huge, comfy and recline...all the way until we have a perfect flat bed. We get served a nice meal, including Argentinian wine, see a funny movie and sleep until we wake up at 6am and have breakfast and coffee as we enter Buenos Aires. Ah...that's the sort of bus we like!

Go with the flow in Viedma

5 February 2010, Viedma (Argentina)

Viedma is set on tranquil Rio Negro. Its green riverbanks are a welcome change from the dry Patagonian desert. Across the river is a historic town: Carmen de Patagones with pretty colonial buildings. During our stay there is an international Open Water Swimming competition: 10 Km of swimming in the river. Some of the athletes competing are olympic athletes (there is even a women from Switzerland). Many stay in our hotel and we see them at breakfast. During the race, the river bank is filled with spectators supporting the swimmers.
We like this relaxed riverside town a lot: great climate, good food, and buckets of cheap ice cream! We hang out by the river and even take a refreshing dip.

Nearby is one of the biggest parrot colonies in the world: 35,000 Burrowing Parrots nest in cliffs along a beach. But when we visit, most of them seem to have left - the nesting season ended a few weeks ago. Nevertheless, we spot dozens of these pretty birds.

Viedma pictures here.

Que quiere desayunar?

January and February 2010

"What would you like for breakfast?", we are asked in Argentina. The first time we heard the question we thought this was the beginning to a great breakfast, imagining fruit, yoghurt, cereal and pancakes. But soon we learn that what this means really is "Would you like Tea or Coffee? With milk?". Yes, that's the choice offered in most hotels, accompanied by stale bread and sometimes tiny croissants. Maybe the breakfast is a reflection of the massive Italian immigration into Argentina. But what speaks against this theory, is the often low quality of the "coffee".

Would you mind taking a picture of us?

19 January 2010

On any touristy spot, we can count on being approached by a couple or sometimes a group of people trusting us with their camera to take a picture of them - we always comply.
At a popular waterfall near El Chalten, Natasha is asked by a big family to take their group picture. No Problem - the family of three generations poses and Natasha takes takes aim. Unexpectedly, a very helpful lady approaches and offers to take the picture instead, and suggests that Natasha join the group photo.
Gaudi regrets that Natasha declind, he would have liked to see the faces of the family, with one extra person in the photo...


Peninsula Valdés

2 February 2010, Argentina

Observing the wildlife: Sealions, Sea Elephants, Ñandus, Guanacos, Armadillos, and more Magellanic Penguins...



Peninsula Valdes