The Jesuit missions: harmonious fusion of cultures?

28 February 2010



Most accounts of the "culture clash" of the European Colonialists and the South American indigenous population follow a similar pattern: some encounters were friendly, most were violent. The indigenous people were enslaved, killed, or driven off their lands; their religious beliefs and traditions forcibly replaced by Catholicism, their artwork melted down for its gold content. Where the direct actions of the colonialists did not lead to their demise, imported illnesses did.





The Jesuit Missions are testimony to an alternative: a fusion of cultures instead of confrontation. The indigenous Guaranis lived together with Jesuit priests in the missions - in a strictly organised society, based on division of labour in agriculture and workshops. But the Guaranis were artistic people, too: The huge churches were richly ornamented in 'Guarani Baroque' and music played an important role in the missions.
But not everyone admired the Jesuit's success. Slavehunters regularly attacked the missions and intrigues were brought against the Jesuits. Before long, the Jesuits were expelled from South America by the Spanish and Portuguese kings.

Fotos from the Jesuit reduccions Santisima Trinidad del Paraná (Paraguay), Jesus de Tavarangue (Paraguay) and San Ignacio (Argentina).

A shocking experience

We adhere to certain standards when choosing a hotel: private bathroom with hot water - especially as Gaudi likes to take long and hot showers. Sometimes, the hot water is provided through an electrical shower: a special showerhead heats the water as it flows through. The construction is powered through a few wires. Sometimes, we have to chose between a hot shower in a dark bathroom or a lukewarm shower with light, as the energy for the bathroom light takes away from the heating. Electricity and water = bad combination. Indeed, in one hotel, Gaudi feels the tickling of the electrical current through a low-hanging showerhead. From now on, electrical showers are on the black-list when choosing a hotel. And if there is no other choice, Gaudi gladly takes an ice-cold shower.

Crossing the Rio del Plata

19 February 2010, Colonia de Sacramento (Uruguay)

Colonia de Sacramento is a picturesque colonial town of Portuguese heritage. A great place to spend a few days enjoying the cobblestoned streets, and the beautiful surroundings. It is situated on the huge Rio de la Plata, across from Buenos Aires (which can just be seen on the horizon on a clear day).

As we move on, we decide to take the night ferry across the river to Buenos Aires. As we are leaving the hotel in the evening, we glimpse at the TV running behind the reception desk: the evening news show pictures of a city with flooded streets, people walking up to their hip in water. The caption reads: "Live from Buenos Aires" - great, that's where we are heading to.
But a quick call to our booked hotel in B.A. confirms: that part of town is not under water, we don't need a raft to get to our hotel; a taxi will do.

Fotos from Colonia de Sacramento

Su nombre?

Making hotel reservations or buying bus tickets, we need to provide our names. "Gaudi" proves very difficult: it has to be spelled, and even then most people get at least three out of five letters wrong. "Schneider" is longer, but surprisingly few people have difficulties getting the spelling right. The reason might be in a comment that a Chilean makes:" Schneider - like the beer!". Indeed, some latin american countries know a beer of that name. From now on, Gaudi registers under "Schneider, como la cerveca".

Natasha has less problems, most people get her name instantly right. A new version of spelling is offered in Argentina though. The Argentinian pronounce the ll and y as "sh". The lady at the reception asks Natasha, how she spells her name: "Natalla", or "Nataya" - both pronounced Natasha in Argentina.

Keeping taxi drivers honest

How do you make sure you are not cheated by your cabdriver?

Well, in Panama City, you can only hope not to be cheated by too much. In some other places, cabs operate a taximeter - but then how can you make sure they take the direct route? "Traffic is crazy today, I will take a different road to avoid getting stuck in a jam" is an explanation that sounds familiar. Often there is no taximeter; agreeing the price beforehand is difficult - by asking how much the ride costs we show that we actually have no idea of the correct price.

The strategy we adopt is the following: we get in the cab, announce our destination, and at the end of the trip just hand the driver the amount we think is correct (having asked beforehand at a hotel or tourist information what that should be). In Cuenca, we take a cab from the bus terminal to our hotel - according to the hotel, this costs 2.50 USD. As we get out and unload our suitcases, Gaudi hands the driver his money. This exact moment, the driver says "1.50, por favor", but instantly realises that we overpaid and adds "Oh, muchas gracias, señor!", thanking for a generous 65% tip and almost hugging Gaudi.