Some highlights from our journey by public bus overland from Quito to the Peruvian border:
Several days in the tiny isolated village of Chugchilán at an altitude of 3,200 meters. We stay at the charming hostal of mama Hilda (the one entrepreneur in this sleepy village) and enjoy the surrounding valleys and countryside. One day the one guy in the village with a vehicle (some sort of old jeep) drives us to the amazing Laguna Quilotowa. On the way we stop several times to pick up and drop off friends and family, to chat with the locals, sell them tickets to the Sunday children's show, at the end we even pick up a cuy we expect for dinner. The whole region is inhabited by indigenous people. We complete the 5 hour hike right around the Laguna Quilotowa, a volcanic crater lake. The hike is up and down varying between 3,800 and 4,100 meters altitude. It left us breathless (in Natasha's case quite literally), luckily we had a guide to help us avoid some of the ascends.
The next stop was Riobamba, offering great views of Ecuador's gigantic volcanoes. In Riobamba, we take up the taxi driver's recommendation and try our luck at the evening street stands, having dinner with the locals. Surprisingly good, and cheap. We go back for seconds.
We take a train ride down the famous Nariz del Diablo. The train descends in a zig-zag fashion into a gorge, at times driving backwards. Well it used to be a functional train connecting Quito to Guayaquil (Ecuador' port and second largest city) but now is more like a bus on tracks shipping tourists back and forth.
In Cuenca, a very charming colonial town, we get to know Gaudi's uncle Roman Malgiaritta, who's been a priest living and working in Ecuador for over 30 years. We have a lovely time with Roman and learn a lot from him about the city and its inhabitants.
In Vilcabamba, we enjoy the fine views of the mountains, the intense colours, and the perfect climate. This is the valley of longevity – we look out for extremely old people alleged to live here, but can't spot any.
Our bus ride to the Peruvian border is quite spectacular and also adventurous. At one point, passing through the Podocarpus national park, the bus gets stuck on the steep muddy road. The passengers were already debating whether they would be making it anywhere, but luckily a construction vehicle comes to our rescue. For the last stretch to the border, we have to take a chiva: a bus with a roof but no sides. The border is just a couple of buildings and completely deserted, everyone on the bus except for us and one other tourist disappeared immediately upon arrival. We are the only ones visiting the immigration offices . . .
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